Metal & Wood Signs in Asheville, NC

HDU stands for high-density urethane. It is a rigid material developed for dimensional signs and is often called sign foam. It can be routed, carved, textured, and painted much like wood, but it does not rot and has no natural grain to split or absorb moisture.

For routed or sandblasted signs, the two most common substrates are real wood and HDU, or high-density urethane. The cost is the same, but the materials behave differently.

We generally prefer wood, especially cedar. Cedar is relatively lightweight, naturally resistant to insects and weather, easy to work with, and the wood grain revealed through sandblasting adds a beautiful design element that HDU simply cannot duplicate. We have also used Douglas fir and oak for certain projects.

HDU is a lightweight foam product, which can make installation easier, but it is also more vulnerable to dents and physical damage and may develop surface pitting from environmental exposure. Wood tends to be stronger and more durable overall.

Whichever material is used, maintenance matters. Exterior wood and HDU signs should generally be repainted about every five years to protect them from sun, rain, moisture, and freezing weather. With proper care, a quality wood sign can easily last more than 20 years, and a well-protected HDU sign can provide a similarly long service life.

Yes. Asheville Signworks can create CNC plasma-cut steel signs using custom lettering, logos, illustrations, property names, addresses, decorative artwork, and other designs.

When we want a warm, naturally rusted finish on raw steel, we “pickle” it ourselves. Our recipe is simple: mix 1 cup of white vinegar, 1 tablespoon of table salt, and about 1 teaspoon of hydrogen peroxide.

If the steel is new, it is imperative that any oil or protective residue be removed before beginning the pickling process. We use acetone to thoroughly clean and degrease the surface. Freshly oiled steel can be surprisingly resistant to the acid treatment. It may appear to be rusting at first, but instead of bonding to the steel, the resulting oxidation can simply wipe away as a soft, rusty sludge. Starting with clean, oil-free bare steel allows the oxidation to develop directly on the surface and produce a durable, natural patina.

Put the mixture in a spray bottle and slosh it around until the salt has dissolved. Then spray the bare steel thoroughly. Reapply the solution every hour or two for two or three days, depending on how much color and texture you want to develop.

There is no need to keep the steel wet continuously. It can dry completely between applications, and direct sunlight isn't necessary either. Each treatment encourages additional oxidation, gradually building the lovely orange and brown swirling patina that makes naturally rusted steel so distinctive.

Because every piece of steel reacts a little differently, the finished patina is never perfectly uniform—which is part of what makes it so beautiful. There is no need to rinse the steel when you're finished. One word of caution: the steel will continue to rust over time, so if you're mounting it against a white plaster wall or another light-colored surface, use spacers to hold it slightly away from the wall and help prevent rust streaks.

Sometimes, yes. A photograph can be simplified and converted into connected shapes suitable for CNC cutting. The design has to account for the fact that every portion of a one-piece steel sign must remain physically connected after the cut is complete.

Yes. Custom house numbers, property names, farm signs, decorative pieces, gifts, memorial signs, garden features, and other residential projects can all be produced in metal, wood, HDU, or combinations of materials.

Absolutely. Many of our favorite projects start with little more than a photograph, sketch, phrase, logo, or unusual idea. We can help develop the artwork into a design that can actually be fabricated.